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the von Trapps whose love story inspired the Sound of Music reestablished their family lodge among the hills of Stowe, Vermont |
We came down from Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and New
Brunswick in Canada back to Bangor, Maine to pick up our RV from Webb’s RV. They had been changing our flooring from
carpet to wood laminate. That gave us the chance, at last, to visit Bar Harbor
and Acadia National Park on Mt. Desert Island, an hour and a half from Webb’s, which
they say is the best of Maine!
Mount Desert Island
of Maine
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Jackson Laboratory on Mount Desert Island |
Bill was in the vicinity 51 years ago when he, together with
28 other high school students from all
over the country, were awarded a 6-week
grant from the National Science Foundation to work at Jackson Laboratory on the
island. Bill remembers that the pier was where they bought whole live lobsters
for a quarter or a large bucket of steamed clams in the restaurant for $1.50 (hamburgers
were about $3). Bar Harbor has now turned into a huge tourist area!
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beautiful Bar Harbor |
But the main draws really are
Acadia National Park in the eastern half of Mt. Desert Island and the beautiful
harbor with many small islands. It was
too bad that the day we went there was low-level fog so many of the sights were
not picture perfect. The Sand Beach is the only area in the Park that is sandy
and the notice read…Swimming, only for the hardy! The water is usually in the low
50’s and with the air temperature in the low 70s, you would not see me even dip
a toe! But there was the hardy, frolicking in the cold water.
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Sand Beach |
Thunder Hole is the hole that thunderously roars as the
waves come rushing to its rocks, making the hole a little bigger each time. We
were there on low tide and the waves were not as big as they can be. Still, it
was a loud cry of the lonely seas. Then we had lots of fun posing atop
different rocks, courting a fall from an unbalanced pose. But Bill was there;
forever ready to be my knight in shining armor!
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Bill at Thunder Hole, braving it all for my photo!!! |
Next, we hiked a mile to Otter Cliff, America’s highest
coastal drop. Again, the photos taken were
of a risky nature, but fun. But we
were so disappointed that the low fog came even lower and masked the beautiful
postcard scenery of Jordan Pond with the North and South Bubble (hills) at the
background. But we were fortunate that it cleared some when we got to
picturesque Bubble Pond.
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Yes, that's me...at Otter Cliff |
The coup de gras is Cadillac Mountain. Standing at almost
5000 feet, it gave us a view of Mt. Desert Island. However, winds of 25 knots
or more prevented me from enjoying the scenery. As usual, the braver of us two
had more of the fun. Acadia National
Park is truly a national treasure. Acadia comes from an extended meaning of the ancient Greek name "Arcadia", meaning "refuge" or
"idyllic place".
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atop Cadillac Mountain, the highest point in Acadia |
Montpelier and Nearby
Communities of Vermont
From Maine, we drove our RV, M’a ‘turn, to Camping du Compton
to start our tour of Quebec and Ontario. But first, we took a day trip to the last
state we have not visited on the East Coast, Vermont. Its capital, Montpelier, is only 2 hours away. The
officer at the border laughed when Bill said we were going for some scoops of
Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream at its Factory. But that was an incredible truth… 4
hours of driving for the best ice cream in America.
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Green Mountain Cafe |
At the Green Mountain Coffee Café (a restored railroad
station) we had a light lunch of spinach pie and broccoli cheddar quiche along
with a taste of coconut-infused coffee. Bill finally chose to bring home the
raspberry truffle coffee from a huge selection of the famous brand. The Stowe Magazine on the cashier’s counter
chronicled the attractions of nearby villages. We found three intriguing places
to visit.
Ben and Jerry had our dessert waiting for us! I had 2 scoops
of Chocolate Therapy, the most wicked chocolate ice cream I have ever had,
filled with chunks of chocolate pudding and crumbles of chocolate cookie. If
there was death by chocolate, this was it! Bill had the famous Cherry Garcia,
cherry ice cream with chunks of cherries and fudge flakes, quite refreshing
compared to my sinful pick.
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chocolate therapy: the best chocolate ice cream I have ever tasted! |
Then we found Cabot Creamery, makers of “the best cheddar
cheese in the world.” Bill questions
this advertising claim. His loyalty is to Tillamook from the west coast
factory. They had a tasting table of about 20 different kinds of cheeses, from
75 % reduced-fat cheddar to vintage, New York, Vermont, Adirondack, etc., mild
and sharp, Monterrey and Jack, jalapeno, and habanero cheddars. I finally found a 50% reduced-fat sharp
cheddar…I had been missing cheese a lot.
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Cabot Creamery's tasting table |
Then we went to where the hills are alive. The famous von
Trapps left Salzburg in 1950 to recreate their lovely Austrian lodge in the
hills of Stowe. All 2,500 rolling acres
are filled with time-share villas, country club, bakery and brewery, green
meadows, and wonderful trails. Maria and the Baron had 3 children, in addition
to the 7 he already had. The youngest, Johannes, is now taking care of the family
estate.
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Trapp Family Lodge at Stowe, Vermont |
But the best find from the magazine is the Hope Cemetery at
Barre, where granite sculptures and inscriptions therein celebrate the legacies
of the interred. There was a large soccer ball, dice cube, biplane, and
convertible, a woman coddling her love on his deathbed, and great replicas of
the Pieta, dual pyramids, and Roman columns. But my favorite is the couple in
jammies, whose tombs are their beds, holding hands saying to each other, ‘Set me as a seal upon thine heart for love is strong as death.’
For a detailed Vermont itinerary, check out the Backpack and Snorkel travel guide.
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'Love is as strong as death' says the couple, holding hands in their jammies with their tombs as their bed |
The best of Maine and Vermont will be difficult to forget.
But the second half of our Canadian tour beckons. And may I add that our new
wood laminate flooring is sooooo coooool! This is truly having the best for
last!