10 REASONS PUERTO VALLARTA WINS MANY HEARTS

Bill had vacationed in Puerto Vallarta (PV) many times with his family while he was still working but he eventually chose to go to Mazatlan on a regular basis. That’s why we are in Mazatlan three months a year. But my daughter and son-in-law had a fantastic couple of times in Puerto Vallarta and have urged me to go and see. So Bill brought me to PV. I wanted to know what the more southern Mexican city is all about. Bill found a changed and grown PV and I found ten reasons she wins many hearts.

Malecon

<os Arcos, an icon of the Malecon

PV’s Malecon is only a mile long and very touristy. It is now jammed by many bars and restaurants for great nightlife and shops and stores for daytime shopping. Many palm trees provide shade and there is a renowned sculpture every hundred feet, top-billed by the colorful Puerto Vallarta city sign with the signature Sea Horse in the middle. Various artists perform their acts along the boardwalk, at the end of which stands the Naval Museum and another emblematic structure, Los Arcos. With all the things going on, I was glad there were kiosks of the Direccion de Turismo, very helpful for first-timers like me.

Shopping and Markets

entering Cuale Market from the bridge that spans the Rio Cuale

There are many flea, artisanal and municipal markets in PV so shopping is particularly fun. We came across the Cuale Market first, after the Malecon, towards the east. It is a unique area carved out of an island on the Rio (River) Cuale, dotted on both sides by many makeshift stores. Unique features—like a centuries-old tree, a pair of hanging bridges that connect the island to the two river banks, a welcoming giant Mexicana, festive banderitas, and an upscale open-air restaurant— add color to the market.

Just outside Old Vallarta west towards the Port are high-end malls for upscale visitors and residents. Farther away in the suburbs are the national chains like Mega Soriana and La Comer and international ones like Walmart and Costco to make the North American snow birders really happy and feel at home.

Zona Romantica

the Pier on Zona Romantica

the Old Seahorse

Farther east, on the other side of the Rio Cuale and beyond the Malecon, is the Zona Romantica. A series of restaurants and bars line the popular Playa Los Muertos. This area is the center of vibrant nightlife. The Pier, completed in 2013, adds pizzazz to the Playa. We went in the day but I was told it is spectacular at night.  At the end of the Playa is the “original” Seahorse. Actually, the original was installed there in 1960 but was swept away by a strong storm. In 1976, a larger replica was built.

Nightlife extends to the many restaurants and bars that line Calle Olas Altas, parallel to the beach. On the same street is Plaza Cardenas which is now more popularly called Plaza de Azulejos because almost every inch of it has been covered with colorful tiles. Many residents have volunteered to install them in sections that they choose. That is also where the office of the Direccion de Turismo is housed and where we planned our visits with the help of the officer-on-duty, Erick Reyes.

Our Lady of Guadalupe Parish Church

The Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe sits just two blocks from the beach, fronting Plaza de Armas. It is "the most endearing" of the city's landmarks, towering over all the other buildings. Started in 1903, it was not really considered complete until its “coronation” in 1965 with a wrought-iron crown hoisted by angels. The original was destroyed by an earthquake 30 years later and the current one is a replica.

Gringo Gulch

Just to the north of the church, up above on a hill accessible by stairs, is a neighborhood called Gringo Gulch. In other words, this is where the Caucasians make their home. As a matter of fact, it is where Elizabeth Taylor lived while she filmed The Night of the Iguana with Richard Burton. Her house—now

known as Casa Kimberley, a hotel—is connected to the Richard Burton house on the other side of the street by a white bridge. It was built to make access to each other more easily. It is just too bad that the set of the movie, the legacy of their love story, is no longer there as It once was kept on the Mismaloya Beach.

Beaches

During the winter months, the temperatures in PV are comfortable — highs of 81 degrees Fahrenheit and lows of 65. There seems to be less wind, too. The Bay of Banderas makes the city (and Nuevo Vallarta, NV) land-locked and protected.  Waves are also not crazy strong, making the beaches a family playground.

I was blown away by Playa Los Muertos and its busy beach vibe but Riviera Nayarit (see Nuevo Vallarta below) is very different, quiet, and pristine. We were not able to go to the ones on the southeast that are only accessible by water taxis. They say those are the most fabulous. And those in the Marietas Islands are at yet another level. Yes, the beaches are a lot of fun in PV.

a regular brisk walk on the beach behind our hotel

Nuevo Vallarta

We stayed in a hotel/resort in NV which is a planned residential-resort community located in the Mexican state of Nayarit, about fifteen minutes north of PV's airport (PV is in the neighboring state of Jalisco). NV is a federal government project for PV’s overflow residents and tourists. It was begun over twenty years ago. Luxury villas, estates, resort hotels, and plush condominiums have arisen, many including canals lined with tropical gardens, each with private docking piers connected to the Marina. There are more than 5 miles of white sandy beach that is now known as Riviera Nayarit.

the Marina beside our hotel resort

The following three other reasons I will write about on my next post:

Bay of Banderas

Bahía de Banderas (or the Bay of Flags) is within the Mexican states of Jalisco and Nayarit. It is home to prominent features like the Marietas Islands and the Los Arcos. The port, the resort city of PV and the resort community of NV are all on the bay.

Sierra Madres

PV and NV are nestled between the Pacific Ocean and the Sierra Madre Mountain Range. This is the reason the port city is so jammed up; the available land is small. But the mountains also provide the opportunity for jungle excursions. Bill and I enjoyed the Canopy River, an oasis on the Cuale River up in the mountains.

Magico Pueblos

Mexico has 121 magico pueblos—magical towns designated as such by the Ministry of Tourism. Jalisco has eight and Nayarit has three. We went to three on this trip: Sayulit and Compostela of Nayarit and San Sebastian del Oeste of Jalisco.

Now I know why PV, and also NV, win(s) many people’s hearts. A lot of them stay.

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