We were camped nearly five hours north of Bisbee in Cottonwood but were captivated at the book launch for one of my husband’s favorite authors, J.A. Jance, and decided to spend a day in the town. Her books are mostly set in Seattle, Washington, where she lived most of her life (where we lived before we started RVing). But the Brady series is set in the town of Bisbee, where she was raised.
Bisbee is less than 12 miles north
of the Mexican border. It was founded as a copper, gold, and silver mining town
in 1880. By 1920, the mining boom raised the population of Bisbee to its high
of just over 9,000 residents. Today, over 5,000 people make Bisbee their home.
And it has transformed itself into a tourist and artists’ haven. It was in the
middle of the 1970s when the transformation happened.
By 1975,
just like in other mining towns in Arizona, mining companies stopped their
operations. Parent company Phelps Dodge Corporation worked with the local
government to create a mine tour that was part of the town’s bid to become a
tourist destination. Later on, the federal government took interest and
provided federal aid to complete the development of the flagship tour of the
Copper Queen Mine, which is one of many things you can enjoy during a perfect
day in Bisbee.
The Queen Mine Tour
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from the Queen Mine Tour |
Bisbee’s Queen Mine was one of the richest copper and one of the largest mines in history. Because of the redevelopment efforts, it reopened very quickly as a tourist destination in 1976, less than 100 years after the mine originally opened. The Bisbee mines produced metals valued at $6.1 billion (in 1975 prices). Eight billion pounds of copper, almost three million pounds of gold, and 77 million pounds of silver were taken from the ground here. A high-quality turquoise known as Bisbee Blue was a by-product of its copper mining days and today is a regarded and priceless collectible.
About 50,000
people a year, outfitted with a hard hat and a miner’s headlamp, take the Queen
Mine Tour. We experienced firsthand, for about an hour, how miners worked,
going down to 1,500 feet below ground. It was very cold down there as the
temperature remains at 47 degrees year-round. Back when the mine was
operational, it was a diverse group of immigrant miners from Europe that tilled
the mines.
The Lavender Pit
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Lavender Pit Photo Credit: Lynn Libert Andrews of the Arizona Photography Group |
Located near
the famous Copper Queen Mine is the former open-pit copper mine called Lavender
Pit. Jeep tours are available if you want to see it up close. The pit is not
colored purple; instead, it got its name from Harrison M. Lavender, who, as
vice-president and general manager of Phelps Dodge Corporation, proceeded to
make the previously unprofitable low-grade copper-bearing rock in the area into
commercial copper ore. It was opened in 1950 and operated until 1974, producing
86 million tons of ore that yielded 600,000 tons of copper, plus gold and
silver by-products.
The Copper Queen Hotel
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The Copper Queen Hotel, Facebook |
Bisbee’s development spurred artist Stephen Hutchison to purchase and redevelop the famed Copper Queen Hotel. Today, it is the most iconic lodging place in town. It was in 1898 when the Queen Consolidated Mining Company decided that they needed a comfortable place for the executives and dignitaries to stay when they visited the mines, especially considering most of their business was run from their Bisbee operations.
John Wayne,
Lee Marvin, Lee Remick, Michelle Pfeiffer, Julia Roberts, Kiefer Sutherland,
Ollie North, Nancy Reagan, Gabby Giffords, Jake LaMotta, and Linda Ronstadt are
some of the famous people who have stayed in this historic hotel. John Wayne’s
favorite room is up the main staircase on the second floor, and it is the most requested room today. But the Copper Queen Hotel is even better known for
those who checked in but never checked out. It is said there are 16 spirits
haunting the hotel, and this is why I will never stay the night!
Originally
built with 72 rooms with a shared bathroom suite on each floor, today, the
Copper Queen is the only full-service hotel in town. We had a brunch of chicken
fried steaks at the former Copper Queen Cafe and Saloon, which are both still
in their original locations. They are now known as 1902 The Spirit Room and The
Overlook Saloon. This is the same saloon where actors John Wayne and Lee Marvin
once had a disagreement that ended with Marvin being thrown out a window by the
Duke.
It is also
interesting to know that the large boiler in the basement of the Mercantile
Building across the street (owned by Phelps Dodge) was used to heat the Copper
Queen Hotel through a tunnel, while The Palm Room on the first floor was used
as air well to provide cool air to the rooms during the area’s hot summers.
The swinging double doors that do not lock and open to the lobby are still
there, reminiscent of the good ol’ doors of the Western days. In fact, the
Queen Copper Hotel is the longest continuously operated hotel in Arizona.
Current rates are between $100 and $200 per night.
Old Bisbee
Bisbee has a thriving downtown cultural scene in the area fondly called Old Bisbee. There are Victorian-style houses and an elegant art deco county courthouse. Compact and walkable, the center of town is quite hilly. There are a lot of stairs from which you can discover little stores or artists’ places. The best example, however, is the old four-story-high school that has a ground-level entrance for each floor given the way it’s built into the hillside.
Erie Street
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Dave Corby, Facebook |
While in Bisbee, you should not miss Erie Street. It is dubbed a living snapshot of a different time. It is like stepping into a Western movie set. Actually, it is what is left of Lowell, Arizona, a former mining town that was incorporated into Bisbee in the early 1900s. There are only three real stores on the street. The rest are empty. However, each year in March, the entire street comes alive with a festival that features live music, cars and motorcycles on display, and lots of food and drinks. We visited in December, and it was also good to see Erie Street’s Western Christmas decor.
Museums
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from Facebook |
If you have more than a day, there are three museums that would be good to visit. They can take you back to the gloried and storied past of Bisbee. The Bisbee Council on the Arts’ Mining and Historical Museum was once the headquarters of the Queen Consolidated Mining Company. It prides itself on being the Smithsonian Institution’s first-ever rural affiliate. They say you haven’t really seen Bisbee if you haven’t visited this museum. Sadly, we did not have the time to do it. And there is the Bisbee Restoration Museum run by volunteers and the Muheim Heritage House Museum whose restored interior and precious period furnishings have made it a National Historic Site.
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This was how we spent our day in the old mining turned cultural destination Bisbee, Arizona.
ReplyDeleteI always though it would be fun to go on an old mine tour. You put together a very informative article about the area.
ReplyDeleteThanks. Bisbee is such a cool town!
DeleteIt would be fun to visit the town where the J.A.Jance Brady series is based. We would certainly book a jeep tour to see the Lavender Pit. Even if we did not find lavender there! And a stroll along Erie Street would be a fun way to go back in time.
ReplyDeleteLots of fun things to do in Bisbee!
DeleteThanks for the fun tour, this reminds me of my visit to Jerome which shares some of the same history and conversion to tourist and art center. I would love to visit some day to Bisbee.
ReplyDeleteJerome is also fun!
DeleteThis is nice! Haven’t visited AZ. Would love to see the lavender pit in addition to others
ReplyDeleteYou will not be disappointed!
DeleteSuch a great place to explore. I’ve never seen a mining town/site. I think it will be a nice get to know nature trip if I visit Bisbee AZ.
ReplyDeleteI am sure!
DeleteI might be down that way in the fall. Thanks for writing this; it never would have occurred to me to visit Bisbee, Arizona!
ReplyDeleteI am glad!
DeleteThx for this super post featuring Bisbee, Arizona, Carol. I’ve heard about this destination in the past, but has not previously known someone who had personally enjoyed it. Your endorsement resonates with me.
ReplyDeleteThat is great! Go!
DeleteI didn’t even know Bisbee existed! The lavender pit looks so beautiful and unique. I really enjoy places that make you feel like you’re somewhere different or somewhere you once loved. Great article!
ReplyDeleteWhat perfect timing! My boyfriend and I were just talking about taking a trip to Arizona and I'd love to add Bisbee to our itinerary. Mines fascinate me and I'd love to see the copper mines here. I was lucky enough to tour a copper mine in Butte in 2019. Thanks for sharing a great place to stay while we're there, too!
ReplyDeleteI am so glad I can help!
DeleteThis is very interesting. I had no idea about the mining history of this region so it would no doubt be a great place to explore.
ReplyDeleteHope you are able to!
DeleteI haven't been to Bisbee, yet, although I was few times to Arizona. Now I know that is worth seeing, great tips on what to do there. I add The Queen Mine Tour to my list must-see.
ReplyDeleteThat is great!
DeleteBisbee is one of our favorite places in Arizona and J.A. Jance has for decades been among my favorite authors. She does have another series of books set in Arizona with the protagonist being a former television news reporter who gets caught up in solving crimes. I do love the Joanna Brady series set in this part of the state as well!
ReplyDeleteOh, I thought it was just the Brady series! What town in Arizona is that other series based on? Tombstone?
Deletelovely shots and lovely places to visit! i want to travel there too soon
ReplyDeleteHope you are able to!
DeleteWe had never heard of Bisbee, so this article opened our eyes to a potential stop in Arizona. It looks like a fun place to spend a day.
ReplyDeleteI am glad!
Delete