TWO DRIFTERS, OFF TO SEE THE WORLD

They could be no more different from us. They are younger, in their 40s vs us in our 70s. They have been together longer, for two and a half decades vs our one. But they are, like us, in Mazatlan for three months this winter. We met for late lunch at Molcajete Loco in Old Mazatlan. The connection was immediate and 2 pm became 6 pm quickly. So I decided that you should also meet this very interesting couple, Jerry and Fiona, owners of the blog A Couple of Drifters.

Their traveling style is so like how we were during our RVing days. You see, to drift means to be carried slowly by a current; to cruise is to travel smoothly at a moderate or economical speed without a precise destination, for pleasure. We simply use different terms. They started with their Van Life until they sold the van, much like our RV Life until we sold the RV.  But we started much later, in our 60s, and our travel styles are so different now. They continue to drift, sans van, while we have shifted to slower and more planned travels from a base as soon as we reached our 70s. 

Once it presented itself, they seized on the opportunity for long term budget travel, believing that “nobody knows what the future holds so now is the time to undertake this journey whilst we are young(ish) and healthy.” Here are their answers to our “tracking down” questions:

1. Where have you been and how long has it been since you started this lifestyle?

beach camping in Baja

We started this lifestyle back in 2013, traveling for all of one year, hitchhiking from Portland, Maine across the U.S. through Mexico and all seven Central American countries, and back. We returned to Portland to work, save, and tie up loose ends. This current journey began in September 2017 and we've driven the length of the Baja peninsula twice—beach camping along the way plus house-sits in the US southwest.

2. How did you come up with your long term travel budget?

$15 each per day is the least amount we came up with to keep us on the road for as long as possible from our savings and retirement investments. We keep a detailed account of every penny that we spend in our Financial Times, a small notebook where we keep track of all daily expenses no matter how minuscule. An analysis of our 2019 entries revealed this breakdown: Transportation-45%, Food & Drinks-35%. Accommodation-7%, Digital Expense: 8%, Others-5%. As we sold the van towards the end of last year and moved into our apartment in Mazatlan, accommodation has risen to 30% of our budget and transportation is near zero.

3. What are your secrets in staying on budget when you travel?

We always look for the cheapest accommodation possible—hotels not hostels (they are no longer the best budget option), especially in Mexico and Central America. We walk for hours all over town looking for the cheapest place and, depending on where we are, we happily haggle the price of a room.

their apartment in Mazatlan

For example, here in Mazatlan, we are in a small one-bedroom apartment in a duplex at the residential neighborhood of Centro Historico, just a couple of blocks away from the Malecon. With cable, wi-fi, and a shared washer and dryer, it is just $5 each per day. We also do a lot of house-sitting, which has been a fantastic way to save money on lodging. Every now and then we'll take an overnight bus, not great for sleeping but kills two birds with one stone.

In terms of food, we try to share plates as often as possible. We eat one meal a day and snack the rest of the day with bread rolls. We choose unadorned, local establishments where there is a set menu and very few (if any) tourists. We also eat a lot of street food. We keep heating elements for boiling water when we don't have access to a cooker. They are perfect for making soups, tea, and coffee.

Transportation expenses are kept to a minimum because we walk a lot and never take taxis or ubers.  Jerry was able to do all the repairs to our van when we had one. We only had to buy the parts. For greater distances, we hitchhike as much as possible. When we do take buses, we always opt for the cheapest bus, which typically means a longer travel time due to frequent stops and no air conditioning, etc. This may also mean a standard seat for two adults will cozily hold 4, not an inch of space left open anywhere on the bus. Often, humans and livestock all share the same space.

If we need to replace any clothing we buy it at second-hand shops/markets and we carry a sewing kit. We also rely on free wi-fi, have no data plan, nor a cellphone. We also do shower laundry. Yes, just as it sounds, we do our laundry while we shower.

4. When and why did you shift from the van life to long term budget travel?

Little Elvis

Selling the van was all part of the original plan. Somehow we just ended up living the van life and house-sitting for longer than we thought we would initially. We sold "Little Elvis" (our van) the beginning of November 2019. We're glad we experienced van life but we are happier without our own wheels.

5. Are there any risks in maintaining your lifestyle?

There are more risks with our lifestyle but we have not encountered any of them yet. When hitchhiking we try to get our lifts while there is still daylight but we have had overnight lifts which turned out fine. We always try to get dropped off at truck stops, that way if we don't have any luck getting another lift to continue, we have a great place to pass the hours until it is time to put our thumbs out once again. Truck stops are open 24 hours a day and we have been treated with nothing but kindness from staff as we quietly wait for dawn.

As far as healthcare is concerned, we've both been very ill on the road, but have never needed medical attention. The best care is to live healthily and prevent major illnesses.

Fiona, leading the hitchhiking

6. How many of your years together have been spent in a home base and drifting?

We’ve been together 24 years as of February 15, 2020. Twenty and a half of those years have been in various home bases: Boston, MA, Birmingham, UK, Albuquerque, NM, Seattle, WA and Portland, ME. So, only three and a half years have been spent traveling as a “Couple of Drifters.”

7.  Which is better in sustaining or even enriching your relationship?

Over 24 years we've done the home base, van life and the current long term budget travel of hotels/hitchhiking/sub-leasing. We really don't find much difference. However, when we were at a home base, we were both working full time so we were not around each other 24/7. This is a key difference. Van life is also different. It was so cramped. “Little Elvis” had a whopping 26" x 28" of clear space. It meant having to communicate about everything. Every last little detail has to be thrashed out together. There's a lot of bickering and just as much compromising. We cannot deny that spending 24/7 together leads you to get on each other's last nerves. Don't be fooled by the idealistic shots that you see on Instagram of gorgeous couples looking perfectly quaffed and staring at each other adoringly. The reality is very different.

they lived at the upper floor of this house in Portland, Maine 

8. Then, what is your secret in staying together in each lifestyle?

The secret is in sharing responsibilities and knowing what they are. After 24 years we each kind of know our own strengths. As two individuals, we complement each other so that together we are like one fully functioning human. For example, with regard to our blog, there was a natural distribution of responsibilities. Jerry takes care of the technical aspects and Instagram, Fiona deals with other social media and marketing. We take turns writing posts. Other secrets are talking about things, listening to each other, and getting mad, sulking, calming down, and finally talking things through. The way we travel is different and can be quite intense. Sometimes, we feel the need to set ourselves down somewhere for a while and just relax. But, ultimately, what is most special about traveling as a couple is that you both share a strong common bond. You can look at each other and know that you are the only ones who can truly understand that moment from your travels that you may now be retelling others.

As you can see, it is right to call them drifters. And it is even more right to call them a couple steadfast in their hope that they can sustain this lifestyle forever or at least as long as they can. Fiona wants to go everywhere and Jerry doesn't have a list. Soon, they will return to New Mexico for another house-sit. Then, they go back to Mexico to resume their drift farther south, past Central America, perhaps into South America. 

Find out how interesting Jerry and Fiona's journeys are as they go on their long-term budget travels. You'll see why the Mayor of Albuquerque, NM shared their post, 
Unique Things to Do in Albuquerque, on his Fb page. The song, "Moon River" captures their spirit precisely: "Two drifters, off to see the world. There's such a lot of world to see."

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The Myriad Things You Can Do on Stone Island

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The Myriad Things You Can Do on Stone Island

Mazatlan has three small islands that adorn its lovely bay—Isla de Pajaros (Bird Island), Islade Vanados (Deer Island), and Isla de Lobos (Isle of Wolves). Each one is a little playground for water sports. Last year, we spent a day on Deer Island, just relaxing under a palapa, feasting on young coconut, taking precious photos, and partaking of the buffet arranged by our resort hotel. But there is another island that is much bigger and is actually a complete town. It competes with the city for tourists. It is called Isla de la Piedra or Stone Island. And there is a myriad of things to do there.

the beach as you face El Faro and the Playa Sur from where we took the ferry

Technically, it is not an island but a small peninsula jutting off the southern part of Mazatlan. Stone Island was born as an ejido in 1936, as a communal land for cooperative farming. Tomatoes and other vegetables were supposed to be the main produce. It was connected with the municipality of El Rosario through a small road, Huizache-Caimanero. Over the years, a road was built that connects it to the airport road. It takes about 20 minutes to reach the town via this route but I understand the road is not very good. A boat cooperative has cut the journey to about five minutes aboard pangas for just Mxn P30 from the Playa Sur Embarcadero on the road to the El Faro Lighthouse on the last stop of the Green Bus.

the famous Rock Islands, white with bird poop

Unfortunately, the lack of irrigation systems eventually ended the agricultural project. The townspeople turned to fishing as an alternative industry. Soon they also discovered that the island’s wonderful beaches with calmer and warmer water, owing to its protected location, would be a goldmine for tourists. Enterprising residents constructed ramadas, palapas or shelter. Today, there are about 50 such food establishments, four hotels, and about 8,000 residents.

the Lone Rock with the harbor seals

Our tour operator had an auriga (bigger than the pulmoniya ) pick us up from the hotel at 9 am. We were brought to the Playa Sur Embarcadero where a catamaran was waiting for us. For the previous two days, boats were banned from the waters because of a thunderstorm and strong winds but on our tour day, we were allowed to go. The kids on the boat enjoyed the ride so much because the waves were still quite high.

Our boat took us to the backside of Creston Hill—the one where El Faro, the tallest lighthouse in the world sits— near the famous Rock Islands, white because of bird poop, and the Lone Rock which houses a pod of seals. Then we were all dropped off at Stone Island. From the dock, all forty of us were ferried to the Playa Sur ramada via the three-carriage contraption pulled by a tractor.

horseback riding on the beach  where the large coconut grove can be found

And then the myriad things to do began, starting with ATVing, which was the main reason we wanted to go. We had such a ball doing this with our friends Carole and Allan…until our ATV stopped dead on its tracks almost at the end of where we were allowed to go. Our friends drove back to get someone to rescue us. In the meantime, I wrote our names on the golden beach, gazed at the wide stretches of sand at one direction running alongside the endless coconut grove, one of the largest in the world, and at the other, looking at the Rock Island Group and Old Mazatlan. There are miles and miles of the glorious beach.

a bright banana boar invites people

After the rescue, we went back to our shelter for the lunch of chicken, fish, salad, and frijoles, serenaded by loud mariachis and bandas. There were many things to do after lunch besides swimming and snorkeling—horseback riding, water sports like jet skis, banana boats, and kayaks, napping at hammocks, snacking on fresh oysters, shopping for local crafts like bags, jewelry, clothes, or colorful ceramic art, hiking the inner island or the coconut grove, playing volleyball or soccer, having a massage, playing with large but harmless iguanas and other normal vacation activities.

you can hold large harmless iguanas

But by 2:30 pm a horn tooted signifying that we would soon go back to the dock and by 4 pm we were indeed back at the Resort. It was a relaxing day because we didn’t try to do more of the myriad things to do. We merely enjoyed the whiff of fresher air in a small tropical paradise very close to the busy city of Mazatlan.

RVs camped on Stone Island

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Mazatlan’s Stairway to Heaven Leads to a Modern Lookout

the new sign

Although this is already our fourth visit to Mazatlan, there is one landmark that we had meant to conquer from the very beginning but we haven’t. We decided we would not let this visit pass until we climb the highest lighthouse in North America, the El Faro Mazatlan.  Located on the top of 523-ft high Creston Hill at the entrance to the Port of Mazatlán, the lighthouse is accessed by climbing 300 paved stairs after a moderately steep gravel path.

I was unsure that, at 71, I am a healthy individual with good physical abilities for whom the website says the hike is recommended. But people had been telling me that it is well worth the climb because of the great views of the city and the sea around it. It is free of charge, open from 6:30 am to 8 pm every day.  It is, however, NOT wheelchair accessible.

the stairs going up

We made sure we were ready for the hike, wore good walking shoes, and brought enough water to drink. After breakfast, at about 9:30 am, we rode the Green Bus to Sabalo Central which takes you through downtown and Old Mazatlan. The stop on the road leading to the hill and the entrance to El Faro is the last one on this line. It was about a 30-minute ride from our El Cid El Moro Beach Hotel.

Since it is a very popular attraction, there were many others hiking with us that morning, a lot of them even older than me. I told myself I had to make it to the top. Besides, there were many improvements made in 2018, including a new 'Faro Mazatlan' sign next to the entrance where there are also restrooms. Plastic webbing was also added to 50% of the gravel path for additional stability but there seemed to be not much of it left., after only just more than a year. But it is good that we had waited this long to go.

a view of Port Mazatlan from the top

After about 30 minutes and countless stops to take "breathtaking" photos, we reached the top. We stayed quite a while to have all the photo-ops we could have of the scenery around, with us in them. We especially loved the new glass-bottomed lookout added as part of the 2018 improvements. Although a small fee of M$10 (US$0.55) is charged to go out on it—and we had to wear blue plastic shoe fittings—the experience was both exhilarating and scary, given my fear of heights.

at the end of the new lookout

the Virgin Mary on the rock

They say there were also plans to add a zip-line from the top of the El Faro to Paseo Claussen. That would have been so extreme that it would somehow end up being unsafe so the plans were dropped. In fact, on the way down, almost near the top, we noticed flowers thrust onto the side of a rock. We thought it was to remember an ill-fated death. But the locals pointed to a plaque of the Virgin Mary engraved higher up into the rock. These are so common everywhere in this predominantly Catholic country. My native land, the Philippines, is also predominantly Catholic but we do not have such devotional practices.

The hike down took us no more than 15 minutes but I was so tired I wanted to get a taxi to get back to the hotel fast. But I also needed to shed some pounds from all the all-inclusive food so I resisted the temptation and took the Green Bus again. That was a great day trip. It was too bad we were not allowed to go up the lighthouse as it still functions as a lighthouse.

El Faro

In 1828, the location began to be used as a reference point to guide the ships to the port. The Lighthouse was added in 1890 to 1892 and was built at a height of 157 meters above the middle-high tide. This makes it the tallest natural lighthouse in the world. Its location is 23⁰ 10.5 'north latitude, and 106⁰ 26.5' of west longitude. With a light beam that is 1,000 watts and an angle of illumination 270⁰ at 170⁰, it can be seen by ships at a distance of 30 nautical miles or 55 kilometers. 

I woke up the following day with sore calves. But I will always remember trips to lighthouses. They is always something magical about them. This one even more so. It is Mazatlan's stairway to heaven with a modern lookout.  



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Mexico, Season 2: We Can Hardly Wait

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Mexico, Season 2: We Can Hardly Wait!

We had been waiting to go back since we arrived from our vacation of all vacations, a three-month all-inclusive stay in Mexico last April. The morning after the New Year’s Eve Ball in Viewpoint, we began our drive down to Mazatlan, Mexico. The four-day drive through southern Arizona, the border, and the states of Sonora and Sinaloa will get us there on January 4.

That should scare a lot of us. Sonora is where, on Nov. 4, nine members of a Mormon family, three mothers with their six children, were massacred near the town of Bavispe, Sonora, 70 miles south of the US border. It is five and a half hours from where we will stay on our second night, after crossing the border. n fact, where we are eventually headed, Mazatlan, is where El Chapo was arrested. Sinaloa, the state the city is in, is Level 4 in the US Travel Advisory, meaning “Do Not Travel” while Sonora, the state we first go through, is Level 3, “Reconsider Travel.” So I researched to find out the truth before we put ourselves in great harm’s way.

I found the list of 50 Most Dangerous Cities of the World of 2019 (murder rates of 35-111 per 100,000 people) compiled by World Population Review. The following countries have many cities that made it to the list: Brazil, 17, Mexico, 12, Venezuela, 5, USA, 4, South Africa, 3, Honduras, 2, Colombia, 2, Jamaica, 1, El Salvador, 1, Guatemala, 1, and Puerto Rico, 1. Yes, the American cities of St. Louis (#13), Baltimore (#21), New Orleans (#44), and Detroit (#45) are all higher than Mazatlan (#46). That was some source of comfort.

Holiday Inn Lobby in Nogales, Arizona with Mexican Insurance room

As I have explained before, Bill truly wants to retire in Mazatlan and Arizona is a compromise for us. But I have grown to like the city a lot, too (please see this post). So we could hardly wait to be back for Mexico, Season 2. We took the necessary precautions, informed the US State Department (STEP, Smart Traveler Enrollment Program) of our itinerary, travel only during midday, 10 am-3 pm, stay only at US hotel chains (Holiday Inn and Best Western), and have urinals in the car. At the time of this publication, we have crossed the border and are in Los Mochis, Sinaloa, just one more day to Mazatlan. 

Nogales, Arizona

Nogales is a good-sized city of about 20,000 and is part of the larger Tucson-Nogales combined statistical area, with a total population of 1 M. It borders the city of Nogales, Sonora, Mexico and is Arizona's largest international border community. Interstate 19 continues south into Mexico as Mexico Federal Highway 15. These two highways are a major part of the CANAMEX Corridor, connecting Canada, the United States, and Mexico.

Km 21 in Nogales, Sonora

There are four international ports of entry in Nogales: the Morley Pedestrian Port of Entry, Dennis Deconcini Pedestrian and Passenger Vehicle Port of Entry, Nogales International Airport, and the Mariposa Port of Entry. Last year, we made a mistake and took the second one. It led us straight into downtown Nogales, Sonora which isn't recommended. We should have taken Mariposa which is much bigger with twelve passenger vehicle inspection lanes and eight commercial inspection lanes and bypasses the city. We, therefore, missed Km 21 which is where the entry permits are given. We had to return to the border from Hermosillo, a six-hour drive, two-way.

Nogales drives about US$30 B worth of fresh produce and manufactured goods from Mexico into the US. This trade helps to support tens of thousands of jobs and the overall economies throughout Arizona and Sonora. Pretty interesting but it wasn’t a tourist town. So, after buying a few groceries from a Safeway near our Holiday Inn Hotel, we just relaxed in our spacious room.

Hermosillo, Sonora

Cerro de la Campana in Hermosillo

Hermosillo is the capital, the largest city, and the main economic center for the state of Sonora. With a population of 830,000, it is the 16th largest city in Mexico. The impressive population growth comes from strong industrialization, especially in the automotive industry, which began in the 1980s. Such is the perk of being close to the US border.

It was also our first Mexican stop on our first drive down to Mazatlan. At the back of our hotel then, I saw an interesting and rocky landform. This time, we found out it is the Cerro de la Campana, an excellent viewpoint for tourists since you can see a great view of the City of the Sun from the hilltop. At an elevation of over 1,000 feet, it was inaugurated in 1909 as a symbol of the city.

Los Mochis, Sinaloa

the new Los Mochis signage inaugurated May, 2019

Los Mochis is a coastal city in northern Sinaloa with a population of over 360,000. It is the end of the Chihuahua-Pacific Railroad which passes through the scenic Copper Canyon, a major tourist attraction of Mexico. This railway was constructed under President Porfirio Díaz as a trade route linking the cattle markets in Kansas City with the nearest port on the Pacific Ocean, Topolobampo, the second-largest deepwater port in the world.

Los Mochis is part of the valley which is the principal agricultural area of Sinaloa. About 70% of all irrigated land produces sugar cane, cotton, rice, flowers, and other vegetables. The valley is also one of the largest producers of mangoes in Mexico. It was good to see the pretty fields and the productive work being done in them.

agricultural field in Los Mochis valley

And, we will be in Mazatlan in less than a day. We had an enjoyable safe drive. Let Mexico, Season 2 begin!

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Looking Forward to Our 2020 Travels

It’s now time to look forward to our travel plans for the coming year. We will go to ten new destinations, return to ten old-time favorites, and visit family and friends. On the road for five months on three separate road trips, we will have seven months of rest at home. I think it is a good way to cruise past 70.

Part 1 Mexico, Season 2

We all read about the recent massacres in Mexico. Indeed, the conditions for safety have deteriorated. But, as we had concluded before, the danger towns of Mexico are no different from the crime-infested towns of America. In fact, they all share spots in the listing of the most dangerous cities in the world. So Bill has decided to drive again to and from Mazatlan. We have found it so convenient to bring as much as we need and to bring home as much as we want. We leave Viewpoint on January 1 and drive down to Mexico going through the towns of Tubac, Arizona, Hermosillo, Sonora (only five and a half hours from a massacre site), and Los Mochis, Sinaloa. 

Concordia, Mexico

On January 4, we reach Mazatlan. For two months, we will have our annual all-inclusive vacation at El Cid Resorts composed of four hotels and a country club complex. Season 1 featured day trips to the towns of El Quelite and El Rosario. During Season 2, we plan to go to the towns of Villa Union and Concordia, famous for their artisanal wooden furniture. We also plan to climb the 325 steps up to the highest lighthouse in America, El Faro Mazatlan. Of the islands around the city, we sailed to Deer Island in Season 1. During Season 2, we intend to go to Stone Island.

Marietas Islands, Mexico

At the end of February, we drive farther down south and spend two weeks (and Bill’s birthday) in Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco. This is my first time to visit this famous Mexican destination. Aside from its Mercado and Malecon, we hope not only to experience the city’s renowned nightlife scene but also to take a boat tour to the spectacular hidden beach in the Marietas Islands. 

Guaymas, Mexico

Two weeks later, we go back to Mazatlan for a reunion of friends from the Philippines, colleagues from the Institute of Advanced Computer Technology. In our last week, we will shop for what we want to bring back home. Our long drive home will be broken with a short rest at the resort town of Guaymas, Sonora. It’s an upcoming Mexican destination that is close to the border. Our final stop will be the border town of Nogales, Sonora. We get home on April 1.

Part 2 Road Trip, Season 2

We are also continuing the tradition we started last year of escaping from the summer sizzle in the Phoenix desert. We will do another road trip of four to five weeks through Americans states and Canadian provinces, visiting family and friends. We will break the long drives with one-week stops at great resort towns.

Cliff Lodge and Spa

From July 7-12, we will be in St. George, Utah. It is the nearest city to Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks. Thus, we will have plenty of opportunities to have outdoor fun with Bill’s son and daughter and their families in our annual reunion with them. Just a four and a half hours north is Salt Lake City. We have often passed through and so we have seen the city in bits and pieces. The week after St. George, we will explore it fully and explore the Great Salt Lake and Temple Square. We will definitely luxuriate at Cliff Lodge & Spa in Snowbird, Utah where our unit has a large hot tub inside.

Lands End, San Francisco

Afterward, we spend a week in Calgary, Alberta, the home of my second daughter and her family. And then we visit our Arizona friends’ mountain cabin for a round of ATV riding in the hills around Essex, Montana. On the way down to my other daughter’s California home, we will pass through Richland, Washington and Klamath Falls, Oregon waiting to be surprised!  Then, from July 29-August 4, we spend a week at the home of my eldest daughter and her family in Livermore, California. The day trips we hope to make while there are to San Francisco’s Land’s End, Point Bonita Lighthouse, and the Cliffside Ruins.

Big Bear Lake, California

Before going home, we will spend our 12^th Wedding Anniversary with a week in Big Bear Lake, California. Summer recreation at the lake includes water fun at the Alpine Slide and a visit to the Big Bear Alpine Zoo, a large rehabilitation place for animals. Hopefully, my eldest grandchild who lives two hours away can join us for a couple of days. We should be glad to be home on Aug. 10.

Part 3 A Short Getaway with Neighbors

Puerto Penasco, Mexico

After these two trips, we will still have two weeks of studio or one week of two bedrooms of timeshare vacations available for the balance of next year. We plan to use this at Puerto Penasco or Rocky Point, Mexico which is just three and a half hours by car from our Viewpoint Home. We have never been there and would like to see if it is a good place to visit regularly, being the nearest Mexican resort town. For a week in September, we plan to party there with our neighbors from Viewpoint Golf Resort.

2020 will take us to ten new destinations, make room for revisiting ten places we have come to love, and allow for visits to family and friends. What's great is that we will even have seven months at home, giving me time to finish my second book. It is the kind of cruising that’s ideal for travelers past 70.


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